K&N Filters Installationby Unknown
INSTALLATION OF K&N AIR FILTERS ON THE VS1400 AND REMOVAL OF THE AIRBOXES
K&N do not make air filters made specifically for the airboxes of the
1400 Intruder. So if you wish to improve the breathing of the bike you will have
to do with their universal filters.
The filters I got hold of were labeled ”F021B4” and
are ”oval, open-side, universal”, conical, with the intake hole offset
from the center. Top side measures 2” x 3” and the bottom end is 3” by 4”.
Diameter of the intake hole was app. 52 mm. - this showed to be a fairly
loose fit and caused no problems in mounting on the carb intake.
Before changing to K&N filters (or at the same time) you should have
installed different jet needles and also changed to a more open exhaust system.
All according to recommendations from K&N.
First you have to remove the seats and the tank (you will have to do this for
just about anything apart from filling gas so go ahead and learn the
procedures). Dont forget to turn off the petcock on the tank before
disconnecting the hoses. Turn it clockwise to shut it off. I slid a red
rubberband over the left hose to remember which hose goes where when assembling.
Also remove the side covers.
FRONT AIRBOX
At first glance, I was sure that the front airbox would be
hardest to get rid of - how wrong I was. First, remove the four screws
that hold the front tank mount. Also remove the two screws that clamp the
throttle cable to the top of the airbox. With a little tweaking and bending of
the cables you should have good access to loosen the clamps that hold the intake
rubber that connects the airbox with the front carb. Next, loosen the bolts that
hold the airbox to the frame. The only one to pose a problem is the front one
that is attached from underneath, near the steering head/oil cooler. The best
way to reach it is probably to turn the front wheel full to the left and take
away the right hand chrome cover of the front cylinder. This will give you
enough room. After that you just pull the box out from its position. Next, you
have to connect the crank-case breathing tube that goes in to the airbox with
the tube that drains it along the left side of the frame - I used a 2” long pipe
and two hose clamps for this procedure. Installation of the K&N filter was a
piece of cake - just slide it on the carb intake and tighten the clamp. Finally,
I used a couple of nylon straps to secure the throttle cable in more or less the
same position as it had before.
REAR AIRBOX
The rear box looks easy enough at first glance. However, when you start
looking for the attachment points you will find that you must loosen some of
the electrical connections that sit on top of the airbox, hiding two of the
bolts. They are simple enough to loosen - just some extra time required. Of
more importance is the fact that on the left side of the airbox there are electrical
components bolted to the box. I would advise against leaving them hanging in
air. Also, when you look at the right side of the box there is a ”bulge”
that is visible from the outside, sitting underneath the right side cover. This
would disappear, leaving a hole, if you were to take away the airbox. My solution
was to cut the airbox and leave the side panels and rear of the box, including
the fasteners. This gave me a small, hidden compartment where the original filter
insert was as well as closing what would otherwise be a ”hole” into
the frame. I will probably install a cigarrette lighter here later on. Installing
the K&N filter is now merely a matter of sliding it onto the carb and tightening
the clamp. You have plenty of room.
The recommendations from K&N on the bypacked piece of paper says that
under normal circumstances you will have to increase the main jet of the carbs
with 15% after installation of their filters. Say you have a 140 main jet
initially - after changing to the K&N filters you would have to increase to
a 160 main jet. These are just recommendations and I would recommend doing a
spark plug reading test prior to messing with the carbs. If you´re lucky you can
get by without changing the main jets.
I run my bike with Jardine 2” drag pipes and have taken out their ”baffles”.
I installed new baffles from Highway Hawk instead, thinking that they would
provide for some backpressure as well as lowering the noise level somewhat.
Shortly thereafter I experienced something interesting - without knowing it I
lost one of these baffles. The ride turned out to be very rough with lots of
misfiring and loss of power. This indicates too little fuel - conclusion: IF YOU
RIDE WITH OPEN DRAG PIPES, INCREASE THE MAIN JETS!! A friend of mine had found
the baffle and came over with it. After installing it I took the bike for
another spin and everything was fine again!! So, for my 1400, I believed
everything was fine without having to rejet - as long as I kept the
baffles - WRONG!!
I recently had the bike tested in a Dyno bench with the following results:
First run 1) Dynojet needle kit, stock main jets, K&N filters, 2”
drag pipes with baffles The bike ran fine up to when the main jets governs
the fuel inlet. Then the ignition curve became ragged (uneven combustion) and
the maximum power was no more than 46.5 hp´s. (And I thought it ran great!)
Torque 82.5 Nm maximum.
Second run 2) Same as for the first run but with the main jets changed
to Dyno jets – 150 up front and 160 in rear. Immediately there was a much
smoother ignition curve, indicating a better running engine. Max power increased
to 50.6 hp´s while the torque actually went down to 80.6 Nm
Third run 3) Finally I removed the baffles to see how much they
influenced the effect – that did it! The effect curve was smooth as a babys
butt and peaked at 64.4 hp´s at the wheel! With a torque of 109.8
Nm
This was actually slightly more than what they had achieved with another 1400
the other day – with V&H slipons which is supposed to be the best. The
difference when I rode home was more dramatic than I had expected. The big kick
in the pants now come from 60 mph and up and thats just where I want it to be.
Good for when you´re passing other traffic. Top speed actually increased as well
– this must be due to a smoother running engine that´s not stuttering and
starving for fuel, since the rev. limiter still is the same. No problems hitting
the ”century mark” whatsoever.
Is it worth all the extra trouble? - that is something you have
to decide for yourselves. I do enjoy the extra kick in the butt, though.
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